Recently returned angler Mark Windsor reports on his trip aboard Georgiana on the Isle of Youth in Cuba…..
As yet another Tarpon made a successful leap for freedom in a shower of spray and acrobatics; I did start to wonder what I had to do to get a hook to stay in the mouth of a Tarpon. Speak to any professional guide or read any book on Tarpon fishing and keeping hooked up is possibly the biggest challenge you will face. When after dinner stories of how many fish were jumped rather than how many were landed become common place then you know you have your work cut out. So to improve the odds and actually hook and remain hooked to one of these magnificent creatures you need practice, lots of it and plenty of fish. And as I recently discovered there is no better place to get this practice than in Cuba. Well the Isla de Juvented to be precise. Situated some 80 miles SW of Havana the Isla de Juvented is reached from Mainland Cuba via a 45 minute flight.
Our guide representative met us at the airport, we loaded up a taxi and 30 minutes later having driven down roads where we saw maybe one other car, we arrived at a small quay set amongst mangroves where the Georgiana is birthed. The Georgiana is what is known as a ‘Live aboard‘ boat and it was where we were going to spend the next 6 nights. Offering private rooms with en suite facilities for up to 8 fishermen it is the perfect way to explore the ribbon of largely uninhabited Cays (apart from monkey island) that stretch from the Southern side of the Isla de Juvented to Cayo Largo further to the SW. These islands are part of the Cuban Marine Park that is protected from commercial fishing and as such offer a truly unique and unspoilt environment to fish and observe nature. From Ospreys to Dolphins and Monkeys it’s all there.
I was with a party of 8 and following a long outward journey from the UK we stayed overnight in Havana. Sadly we arrived a little too late to sample a Friday night in town but maybe just as well, as we were up early for a quick breakfast and then the internal flight tothe Isla de Juvented. We boarded the Georgiana about lunchtime on the Saturday and was pleasantly surprised to learn that following lunch we would tackle up and then get out for a late afternoon / evening fishing session. Now that was a bonus.
So whilst the Georgiana slowly motored away from the quay we got our gear ready. The Georgiana has 3 locations to anchor during the stay. The first location was a relatively short run out and we anchored up in a channel offering magnificent views back towards the Isla de Juventud. No need to worry about the boat bouncing around on high seas, we are inside the reef and the waters are generally very calm with just a gentle rocking motion to the boat (Let me tell you will sleep like never before). The skiffs are boarded from the rear transom of the boat and it’s all very well organised, so following a fantastic lunch and the start of the weeks lobster fest (lobster on offer at every meal except breakfast) plenty of water, tackle bags, more gear and lots of rods we were ready to roll.
Four skiffs run off the Georgiana 1 guide 2 fishermen to each skiff. Where this method of fishing really works is that you are literally a short boat ride to the fishing spots, you don’t have to spend hours powering out to the fishing locations you are right on the door step. So in some cases within minutes you can be up fishing. Generally best to agree terms with your boat partner which is either 20 mins each or if you have had a couple of shots and missed or jumped a fish then swap over. This gives plenty of time to rest in between the fishing, drink some water, change your chafed leader or fly.
Each day’s fishing is split into 2 halves. In the morning we were out from 8-1pm then in the afternoon 4-8pm. The afternoon break is welcome as the heat can be savage so a chance to regroup have more lobster at lunchtime and rest or fish off the back of the Georgiana as we did with Tom one of the group who caught a cracking red snapper and was bitten off by a huge Barracuda. A lunchtime swim is also a possibility that is until we decided there were too many Barracuda!
The fishing is simply fantastic, the guides speak good English and communicate well, are polite and very helpful. Their knowledge of the water and areas to fish is astonishing. Whilst the area is a mixed fishery offering Tarpon, Bonefish, Permit you can also chase plenty of Barracuda, Snook and a range of hungry snappers and Jacks to a good size.
Together with my boat partner we fished mostly for Tarpon in either the Mangrove lagoons, open coastal flats, deep channels or on the reef. The fish move around depending on the state of the tide but the guides know where to look and are good at finding the fish. The buzz of arriving on a Tarpon flat, with clear skies, a sandy beach with a school of a million sardines just in front you makes you tingle, then watch as a hole appears in the middle of the sardines and then you know there is a Tarpon hunting. The anticipation as you put the fly over the sardines and start to draw it back knowing that at any moment the line will be wrenched from your grip as a fish anything from 30 -80lbs eats your fly can test your nerves, tackle and skill.
At times the water would simply explode as Tarpon smashed into the sardines with fish seemingly all around the skiff it was only a matter of time before we made contact. Sometimes we could see the fish other times the water was murky caused from frenzied feeding. But carefully directed casts would almost always at some point lock up into a fish and then the fights on. A forty or fifty pound Tarpon does not come easily to the boat, bow tothe king but keep the pressure on to ensure the hook stays in place. Maybe after twenty minutes of an arm wrenching tug of war with your 12 weight rod bent double, keeping the fish off balance, listening to the guide and remaining focused, you might be lucky and get the fish to the boat. A fantastic achievement you will feel truly elated and the best bit is that you can get up and do it all over again until your arm falls off.
Fishing the reef can be very exciting especially in the evening with big Tarpon cruising on the hunt for food but also other species as my boat partner Kevin discovered as he locked horns with a Jack Crevalle of about 25lbs and let me tell you those fish can pull. His 12 weight rod was bent double as this beast tore off line and backing from his reel like it was never coming back. Even as experienced saltwater fisherman we both wondered what the hell he had hooked“. A tremendous tussle, what a great fish that must have taken 25 minutes to land.
Rolling Tarpon in the channels also set the pulse racing and whilst we use sinking lines to get the fly down to the fish you have the same heart stopping moment as you slowly retrieve your cast only to feel the line lock solid as a Tarpon eats your fly. No more than 10 feet from the boat I had a smash take from a huge fish of about 80lbs and once again Kevin hooked and jumped a huge fish almost first cast one morning fishing an open channel. You really have to be ready from the moment you set off. There cannot be many places in the world where within a few minutes of leaving the Georgiana we were casting to huge Tarpon, what a wake-up call.
In contrast there are Bonefish and plenty of them. Whilst we didn’t spend a lot of time chasing them the ones that I made contact with were in the 5lb bracket. One of my boat partners Charles hooked a large Bonefish which following several long fast runs became a victim to a Barracuda that took it for his lunch. The Barracuda was so close to the boat that we could see the bonefish in its mouth that was until it bit it clean in half. Not much fun for the bonefish.
Kevin also had some great shots at some good Permit but they can be like chasing ghosts at times and sadly we didn’t get a hook up. One minute the fish were there then they simply vanished almost dissolving in the water.
Every evening as we shared cocktails before supper (more lobster) there were tails of fish being hooked and lost and the exciting times we were all having. We tied flies during lunchtimes and evenings and hooked fish on them that afternoon or the next day.
I lost count of how many fish were caught but everyone was catching and jumping fish. One of the party, John managed to jump five Tarpon on one cast! Unbelievable. But probably the highlight of the week for both myself and Kevin (my boat partner) was hooking a couple of really large Tarpon c 60-65lbs in shallow water mangroves and successfully landing them. Testing fights in amongst mangroves with your nerves on edge, will it stay on!!!! Our 11 weight rods tested to the limits.
We worked hard for our fish but they were there to be caught and if you listen to your guide and follow their instructions you will catch plenty of fish off the Isla de Juvented. If you want the Silver King then you should make this trip. The whole experience of living on board a boat and fishing waters not reached by any other anglers except the ones your with is a real bonus. The fishing pressure is minimal and a well presented fly will be eaten.
To round off a great trip the return journey allows you to spend a Friday evening and Saturday morning in Havana which is well worth it as it is everything you would expect it to be. A vibrant city of music, colour and heat, trapped in a time warp, very charming with very friendly people.
I can truly say this was one of the most memorable fishing trips I have ever been on and Mat Mchugh and his team did a great job.
Written by Mark Windsor. Mark works part-time for Farlows, Pall Mall and you can find him in the shop most Saturday’s.